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Category: Dog Care Page 8 of 20

Tug toys are made to hang on to


Donna will hold on forever! from weliveinaflat on Vimeo.

OK, so not forever. :P

Donna loves tug. It’s probably hard-coded into her DNA.

I had to teach her to weave between my legs, sit on the weighing scale and touch her nose to my hand.

But tug?

She does it all on her on. Even more than she retrieves!

Dogs are predators and scavengers. They need an outlet for exercising their instincts. The predatory sequence is eye, stalk, chase, grab/shake, and beyond that kill, eat. The game of tug-of-war keeps the sequence at bay, trained properly, to grab/shake. It is a satisfying experience for the dog and can be a very good training tool. A healthy outlet for natural prey instincts is to understand that the key is to play the game with rules. – why dogs like to play tug of war

We have been told not to play tug with her before or at least to always make sure we win if we do.

The first video doesn’t show it but after some months, we found that it doesn’t really matter who wins. And honestly, I would have some issues with the dog’s intelligence if she were to persist to want to keep playing a game that she was bound to lose. I wouldn’t want to be the losing side all the time!

playing tugGive it up, human!

So now and then, we do let her win :P And interestingly enough, there was a couple of times where she would run willy nilly to her crate with her toy, before peeking at us to see if we follow. And when it looks like we’re ignoring her, she’ll bring the toy back. ;)

There are some things we do to make tug safe for dog and humans. That’s because even if Donna is not aggressive or protective over her toys (some dogs are, so tug may not be that great an idea just yet for them), there will be times when she gets too excited and accidentally nip or scratch the human.

1) Use a longer toy.
The longer it is the further your fingers can be from the dog’s teeth to prevent accidental nipping or biting. There will be times when Donna feels herself losing her grip on the toy and tries to adjust her grip on it to get a better hold of it. This is when she may accidentally bump her teeth to our fingers or hands.

playing tug
This toy may be a little short.

2) Training that teeth and skin contact ends the game
When Donna gets excited, she may try to snap at the toy to get it, particularly if it dangles enticingly just within reach. That of course means danger for human fingers to some extent. Stop play when dog gets too rough so dog learns that she gets to play when she plays nicely

playing tug
Another entirely too short toy when she grabs it by the middle. Watch out for those teeth!

3) Teach “drop it”
Particularly for Mr P’s case where tug becomes a rousing game, Donna can get over-excited. Being able to get the dog to drop the toy on cue means that we can go into time outs easier and let Donna regain calmness before she accidentally hurts us from being over enthusiastic in play.

Some dogs play growl when they are having fun at tug, but not Donna. She does however reserve the odd snort now and then. I don’t know for what but I imagine its to express disgust at the unfair advantage we have over her in the game :P

…(you) don’t want to lift the dog off the ground by the tug because it could hyper-extend their neck and possibly cause an injury. Try to mimic a dog when playing tug – they pull side to side or straight back. Their necks are built to have tremendous power from side to side, but not up and down. When dogs tug with other dogs you will never see one jerk or bounce the other up and down. – Should I play tug with my dog

References
– Why dogs like to play tug of war
Should I play tug with my dog?
To tug or not to tug
Dog-training tip video – tugging with your dog
– Rules for Playing Tug with your Dog
– How police dogs work
– The right way to play tug with your dog

You’ve not seen a bug before, human?

green bug dog and bug dog and bug dog and bug dog and bug
Utterly zero interest in the baby bug, which is a good thing. ;)

 

My dog doesn’t see the point of leg weaves

Previously we were training targeting using nose to hand so that we can use it to learn other things like eventually walking on two legs and leg weaving. Not very practical skills but it’s fun :P

Training standing on two legs

Do I get extra if I get creative and touch my chin to your fingers instead, human?
Or my paws to fingers?
Ok fine, so you want nose to fingers only.

Training Leg Weaves

I don’t wanna do the leg weaves anymore, human, no matter how your are waving your finger to get me to target through your legs. So I’m just gonna flop on the floor in protest.

And if my bum happens to land on your foot, I don’t care. 
See, this is my I-don’t-care face.
But I still want the treat… ….. …. how about I trade you a rollover?
I rollover long time, human. *wriggle wriggle*
Shit, why do I think this is a waste of time? 
Because the human doesn’t exactly want to reinforce behaviours I don’t want to encourage, so I can’t treat if I ask you to do a leg weave and you decide to rollover instead :P

Anyway, I guess Donna’s doing this from a combination of factors, she gets too bored of the treats and she wants to get the treats by doing the easy stuff that she already knows.

So I changed the treats after that…

The results?

Here’s a video of Donna doing the looping around my left and right legs.

leg weave from weliveinaflat on Vimeo.

Here’s a video of me awkwardly taking steps forward while Donna loops around my legs.

leg weaving stepping forwards from weliveinaflat on Vimeo.

It’s not smooth and I probably still have a ways before I can fade away the hand cues. But at least she does leg weaves now!! :P

For steps on how to train leg weaves, check out this Youtube video!

Friendly Friday – The canine condition

Friday again! Some pages that caught my interesting ;)

I’m kind of wondering should there be a reason to prefer male or female dogs. I mean, people usually think that male human children are naughtier and harder to manage than female kids. Is there such gender difference in dogs, you think?

My dog loves her butt rubs! But why? – Dog Behaviour Explained!


Donna loves a butt rub!! (Enhanced) from weliveinaflat on Vimeo.

The dog’s rump and why it needs scratching from humans?

Well technically, that area at the base of her tail is called the rump, I think. It’s funny how rubbing that spot causes her to wag furiously, and how the wagging stops when the rubbing stops. And also how she would draw circles in the air with her nose when she really enjoys getting her rump scratched.

But why does my dog look sort of blissed out sometimes when she gets a butt rub? According to this Elizabeth Tumbarello article, the area of the dog’s rump at the base of his/her tail is filled with sensitive nerve endings. In Donna’s case the sensation of scratching is pleasurable because of this. However, this is not universal to all dogs. Some dogs may not like it so approach strange dog rumps with care ;)

And why does Donna blatantly present her rear end to the human and demand to be scratched her on the rump?

Besides the simple fact that it feels good, Dr. Bonnie Beaver, professor of veterinary medicine at Texas A&M University, explained on thebark.com that the rear is also ‘a very hard area for them to reach themselves… and how nice it is if someone will scratch that for you.’

Dog butt rub / scratch - itchy butt

Dog butts itch, human!

OK, so I get that Donna sometimes needs a hand. And when she doesn’t get it, she goes and rubs her side against the back of the sofa D: You can imagine the layers of hair she has left there – – Actually I lie. Even when we give her a hand, she still likes to go rub against the back of the sofa. Sigh.

How to tell if your dog wants a butt rub

Look at the video.

Step 1, Turn around and unceremoniously plant the rear end in the human’s face :P

Step 2, Turn head back and give human the look. You either demand it or you plead for it. In Donna’s case, she just takes it for granted that it’s gonna happen so she just stands there and waits.

Step 3, If you are satisfied with the human’s services, give her your toy as a reward.

Step 4, But remember to keep her focused on the task at hand. Humans get distracted by toys easily.

If the dog moves away or removes her rump from my hand, I would safely assume my services are no longer needed. ; ) Mission accomplished!

She could at least treat me to a coffee… :P

Does your dog like his/her butt scratched? What does he/she do to get your attention for that? 

Is your dog scratching too much to be normal?
If he/she is only scratching in 1-2 spots, it might be insect bites or hotspots. Here are some great itch-relief products on Amazon.com

1.     2.     3.
1. Earthbath Green Tea Leaf Three-In-One Deodorizing Spritz for Dogs, 8-Ounce
2. Earthbath All Natural Hot Spot and Itch Relief Deodorizing Spritz, 8-Ounce
3. Espree Aloe Vera Jelly for Pets

 

References
– The short tail of the rump scratch
What is the most sensitive part on your dog?
– Dogs and butt scratches – Boys vs Girls
– Why do dogs like to have the base of their tails scratched – the nest
– Why do dogs like to have the base of their tails scratched – ehow
– Why do dogs like to have the base of their tails scratched – daily puppy

Go to your bed or Go to your crate

donna in crate

One of the things that get reiterated online by dog trainers when it comes to helping the dog to adapt and learn to live in a new home is that Crate Training is highly recommended. Particularly if one brings home a puppy, with the associated teething and destructive issues, having the puppy in a crate when you don’t have the time to supervise can save you much heartbreak over the expensive, now ruined furniture.

I don’t talk to anyone about crate training much offline simply because I get told that Crate Training is cruel or the dog doesn’t like it in there. But I do like to write about it on the blog so that Mr P can read it in detail when he is in the mood. :P

Because we had planned to spread out our dog expenses across the months, we didn’t get the crate (which cost about $100) right off the bat in the beginning. I didn’t know much about crate training then and needed the time to do the proper reading before we commit to a crate.

But let’s start right at the beginning, shall we?

January 2013

When we first brought Donna home, the shelter advised us to let Donna sleep in the room with us for that first night at least. That was pretty good advice, if you think about it. Imagine what damage a strange, curious dog could wrought in a new environment unsupervised in the middle of the night! But of course, we were dog idiots at that time and weren’t aware of such … concerns.

That whole night Donna was restless and kept clattering about the room. So I was happy to kick both dog and her tub bed out of the room the second night so that I can finally get some sleep!

dog's first night at home
That’s the last night you’ll spend in this room, missy! *kicks dog out; dog flies out of the room; exit stage left*

Thankfully, Donna apparently had the wisdom to leave most things alone even when unsupervised for the night. So we did not suffer too much in terms of damage to both dog or property. One of the perks of adopting an adult dog perhaps?

The tub bed was old and I was finicky about things looking nice in our new flat so one day, it disappeared. :P (She preferred the towel anyway.) The poor dog had to make do with towels in the meantime. Luckily she is young and not suffering from aches that may plague an elder dog. That said, there was always a chance that she might pee on her towel when it rains. (She suffered from thunder phobia and her first instinct still is to pee on floor rugs, towels or anything of that texture lying around.)

And so we got her a new fluffy bed!

The problem was, Donna was a little like Jake, she hadn’t figured out what the pillow on the floor was for. And she didn’t really want to approach it. So it was time to build positive associations with the pillow by decorating it with food!!

February 2013

What's this, the dog thought to herself looking at the line of kibble on her bed. What's this line of treats doing here??
What’s this, the dog thought to herself. What’s this line of treats doing here??
Why's the human not saying anything? Am I supposed to leave it?
Why’s the human not saying anything? Am I supposed to leave it?
Shit, she is looking at me. What do I do? Maybe, I should pretend that I am not interested.
Shit, she is looking at me. What do I do? Maybe, I should pretend that I am not interested.
That's it. I am not interested.
That’s it. I am not interested.
NOT interested!
NOT interested!

The only problem was, this cynical dog had just learnt two things during her short stay with us (1) leave it and (2) nothing in life is for free. And so she left her new bed and the food alone.

The human had to keep leaving food on her new bed, quit the scene and leave the dog to discover the food and learn to approach her bed by herself.

Eventually, she did start using it. I continued to reinforce her use of her new bed positively, by doling out treats every time I see her using her bed. By this time, I was also able to start positive training her to Go to her bed to get her treats.

March 2014

Donna, bright-eye and eagerly waiting for her treat for going to her bed.
Donna, bright-eye and eagerly waiting for her treat for going to her bed.

I soon discovered the bed was an amazing tool for teaching her to Stay. Before, she could never stay. She always wanted to come towards me rather than stay at the spot that I asked her to. That bed somehow  became an anchor that helped her to stay better than she ever did before.

“This is taking so long I am getting sleepy… zZzZzZzZz…” Yup, real good at staying.
“This is taking so long I am getting sleepy… zZzZzZzZz…” Yup, real good at staying.

Benefits of the Go to Your Bed Command

  • Gets dog out of the way to a specific location, e.g.
    • consistent use during floor cleaning helps dog learn to automatically retreat to her bed when a human starts to clean the floor
    • consistent use helps dog learn that the right thing to do is to go to her bed and stay when someone rings the doorbell and you answer the door
    • when you need a time out from your dog
    • when your dog needs a timeout from you

June 2013

We eventually got her an even bigger bed, and she had no problems using it right away.

For some reason or other, she developed a mania around digging the bed every single night. All that energy pushed the bed into the room that she was kicked out of the first day.
For some reason or other, she developed a mania around digging the bed every single night. All that energy pushed the bed into the room that she was kicked out of the first day.

August 2013

After months of dawdling, we finally bought her a crate to function as her “bedroom”. At that time, these are the perceived benefits that I thought I would get out of the crate.

Benefits of Crate Training

  • the benefits of Go to Your Bed, plus…
  • calm visitors (friends, plumbers, electricians, etc, etc) who are scared of dogs by giving them the assurance that dog is crated and cannot approach them
  • gives dog a “room” of her own to run and hide in when the flat is invaded by too many strange and overly-friendly humans
  • gives dog a “room” of her own to run and hide during a thunderstorm
  • gives dog a chance to get used to and be comfortable with being confined, in case she ever needs to be, e.g. at the vet or at the dog boarder, etc.
  • helps dog learn that it is ok to be by herself and that she does not need to be overly attached to the human, which helps to lessen the chances of separation anxiety

When introducing the new crate to her, I stuffed the bed she was used to into the crate but she was still hesitant about it.

Based on my past experience getting her to love her bed, I used the same method to positively condition her to like the crate.

The top hatch of the crate proved rather useful for dropping treats into the crate.The top hatch of the crate proved rather useful for dropping treats into the crate.

And while at first, Donna didn’t really want to put a foot in, she at least tried very hard to stretch and crane her neck in to reach the treats.

Eventually she did put a foot or two in and she got a ton of treats. I continued with trying to positively condition her to be comfortable with going into the crate totally. This meant I continued to treat her when she did so. And I continued to scatter treats in her crate that she may discover on her own.

I forgot how long it took but she eventually was happy to go into the crate in anticipation of her food.

So by that time I started to feed her all her meals and her kongs in the crate because I really, really wanted her to love her new bedroom cum dining room. At some point, instead of of hanging around the child gate that barred her from the kitchen while I prepare her meals, she took it into her head to wait for it in her crate instead. 

I'm going to have breakfast in crate, thank you.
I’m going to have breakfast in crate, thank you. 

I can safely leave her crated for 2-3 hours with her Kong toy  while I work on things at home. Sometimes, I get pre-occupied and forget she is still in there and the poor dog starts to whine so I know her patience has been exhausted and I should let her out :P

It took some months before I had the confidence to leave her crated for short periods of time with me out of the house. We started with short durations of 15-20 minutes to about a couple of hours when we go out for dinner. And I’m pleased that she has not damaged herself or suffered from any forms of unwillingness to go into the crate for her food when we are ready to head out.

In fact, she is always happy to rush into her crate for her own dinner and ignore the humans that try to depart from the house as quietly as possible. :P

Note: That said, I don’t really like to leave her crated at home when there’s nobody in the flat. It just doesn’t seem wise, say if there were an accidental fire and she was unable to escape because she was trapped in the crate. Although in some cases, it may be safer for the dog prone to destructive behaviour to be crated than left to roam freely at home.

Nowadays it has become her personal preference to take all her treats, food toys and dental chews into her crate, even if I had given it to her outside of it. So I think the crate training is pretty successful. ;)

However, although Donna learnt to go to her crate pretty fast for food, it took more than a couple of months before she went in there just to chill out or to sleep for an extended period of time. I read somewhere that dogs only sleep on their backs if they feel totally secure in the place. Dogs that feel a need to stay guarded tend to sleep in the donut shape, which is least restful but easiest for them to wake up fast to respond to a threat. For months, Donna has been sleeping in there as a round ball.

February 2014

It was only in the last month or two that I finally spied her sleeping on her side in the crate, looking so much more relaxed than before! I was ecstatic and needed to take this picture :P

Donna sleeping on her side in the crate

Perhaps one day, I may be lucky and find her sleeping there on her back. I hope it won’t take years for her to finally safe and secure enough in the flat to do that!

So there you go, a pretty long tale about how we progressed from Go to your bed to Go to your crate. Of the perceived benefits listed above earlier in the post, we were able to achieve most except for having her use the crate as a safe refuge from the thunderstorm. That is still something that we are working on when the storm season rolls around the corner.

Other than that, Donna still has her old beds about the flat so she has the freedom of using either the crate or bed. She uses both and the floor rather equally.

And of course, I have to say that Crate Training is NOT cruel and the dog can learn to love her crate. It’s the training methods we use that determine whether the crate is a cruel confinement tool or a cool, chill out den for the dog. Using positive methods to reinforce happy associations to the crate for the dog, it is not a hardship for the dog to go into the crate, enjoy her food or a little nap in there or just to get out of the way when you need her to do so. ; )

Given our own experience, I do think we could have invested in a crate right from the start, but we were tentative dog idiots then so no harm, no foul.

Did you get your dog a crate right at the beginning or did you wait to get it like us?

Advertisement
Useful equipment mentioned in this post that you can get on Amazon:
 References

– Teach your dog to go to bed – http://www.quickanddirtytips.com/pets/dog-training/teach-your-dog-to-go-to-bed
– Five steps to teach your dog to go to place – http://www.clickertraining.com/node/3308
– How to crate train your dog – http://smartdoguniversity.com/crate-train-dog/
– When can I get rid of the crate – http://smartdog.typepad.com/smart_dog/2012/09/dog-training-ask-the-trainer-when-can-i-get-rid-of-the-crate.html
– Three Must Have’s – http://smartdog.typepad.com/smart_dog/crate-training/
– Crate training a puppy or dog – http://www.perfectpaws.com/crt.html
– Crate training on wikipedia – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crate_training

Playing dogs – Donna and the Schnauzer

singapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzer

Donna has a few friends in the neighbourhood that she likes to play with. The trouble is, we don’t actually bump into these friends very often simply because the dogs get walked at different times by grandparents, by domestic helpers, by working humans, etc, etc.

singapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzer

Donna generally would love to approach any dog but I sometimes have to rein her in because some small dogs are very vocal about the mongrel and I have no idea whether these small dogs are just barking for joy or barking a warning.

Lassie the Schnauzer is a quiet dog that tenses and stands very still whenever Donna and I chance to walk past. We’ve chatted somewhat, but because the schnuazer usually seems so tense, Donna only gets a passing sniff of the schnauzer as we hurry past.

At first I thought this was inevitable, since my previous experience with senior dogs was that they just didn’t like to play with Donna. And yes, Lassie the Schnauzer is a senior dog about 10-years-old.

singapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzer

So imagine my surprise when the third time we encountered this particular senior Schnauzer, he seemed to have lost some of his tenseness. In fact, he became downright friendly and playful after a while.

And once they started, they didn’t seem to want to stop! :D

singapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzer

Here are photos of them playing and wrestling around. ; ) I can only assume that the small space may have influence they play behaviour to focus on wrestling rather than chasing each other around in wide arcs (which is something that Donna likes to do.)

singapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzersingapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzersingapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzer
singapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzersingapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzersingapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzer
singapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzer
singapore dogs - mongrel and schnauzer

I personally think Lassie the Schnauzer looks very debonair with his fringe over one eye. Donna just looks silly with all her weird and funny facial expressions caught in the action shots. :P


with 2 Brown Dawgs
and Heart Like a Dog.

Training Opportunities become clear with a Schedule

Donna has a limited repertoire of skills because I don’t really make time to expand it. That is what I want to do with her while she is still young and active.


How we took this photo “Leave it” so she knew to leave the kibble alone. Nose” to get Donna to go near the kibble where I wanted her to be. She typically would sit far away from temptation otherwise. :P “Sit-stay”. She hasn’t learnt “Watch me”, so I just snapped when she happened to look at the camera. Patience required. It also helps to make weird noises that get her attention sometimes :P 

What has helped me a lot in making sure she has not forgotten what she already knows is the Nothing In Life Is Free program. It basically means the dog only gets a treat if she has done something to earn it. Integrating that concept into our interaction with her means that she gets some form of instruction or reinforcement of good behaviour everyday.

1. Mealtimes are easy training opportunities

The table below shows how I tried to use key feeding times throughout the day for training. Normally I just get her to practice what she already know so she doesn’t forget. Integrating training into these points of the day helps me a lot because otherwise, it is likely I will not be as mindful about training her consistently on a daily basis.

Frequency Intent Behaviour Rewards
Meal 1 Refresh basic commands – Nose
– Wave
– Sit-Stay
– Go to crate
– Shake-a-paw
– High-Five
kibble + canned
Meal 2 Mental exercise Play with treat dispensing toys Kibble
Meal 3 New skills – Leg weaving
– Spinning
– Sit pretty
– Backward heel
Canned food

Mealtimes are definitely the easiest times to train simply because the rewards are there and the dog is eager. She is  already tuned in to the fixed feeding schedule and routines that we have.

Along the way, I decided to use different mealtimes for different purposes. This helps me not fall into the easy trap of just reinforcing her on commands that she already knows. The different purposes are identified in the Intent column for each meal.

2. Every walk is an opportunity for dog to learn good walking habits

Training during dogwalking is a huge incentive for me because I get very bored otherwise. I get absolutely no incentive for standing around doing nothing while the dog takes her own sweet time sniffing the dirt.

But I get inconsistent here too. Often I run out of treats or it is too hot or too hazy. But otherwise, just being outdoors in a distracting environment helps to reinforce the dog for behaviours that help hugely for when we bring her to highly busy environments like the Pet Expo.

Frequency Intent Behaviour Rewards
Walks (morning/night) Outside skills – Loose leash
– Off-leash
– Come, Nose
– Go sniff
– Leave it
– Jump/Up
– Stay, Wait
– Let’s go
– Slow
– Fetch
– Stop
Meat cubes

3. Grooming time is opportunity to reinforce behaviours that make grooming easy but also most difficult to reinforce when dog is stressed

Tooth brushing

We recently bought two expensive bags of Greenies at the pet expo and I tell you she goes crazy for them. I give her one Greenies at bedtime when I’m too tired to struggle with her over tooth brushing.

And yes, there lies my dilemma. It seems recommended for no food 2 hours before or after tooth brushing so there’s no incentive for her to like toothbrushing. She gets too grumpy with me for play to be an incentive.

So right now, Greenies and tooth-brushing are interchangeable during bedtime. I want to make toothbrushing a discipline every night simply because Donna’s teeth are in such bad condition. But I need to find some way to help her like it.

And that also means I need to slot the Greenies somewhere else, since there’s no point in putting them together, is there?

Frequency Intent Behaviour Rewards
Bedtime Refresh tricks – Go to crate
– Sit-Stay
– Come
– Play dead
– Rollover
Greenies
Bedtime Toothbrushing – Sit-Stay
– Keep calm & Hold Still
Yummy toothpaste is not incentive enough :(

Bath, Ear cleaning and Nail Cutting

These are the three things we are really bad at. I used to throw kibble into the bathroom during mealtime just so that she can get comfortable walking into the shower herself. A lot of the preparation training during mealtimes help, but when it  comes to the actual thing I still struggle to have her keep calm, lie on her side and play dead for her nail cutting for example.

Sometimes, she just doesn’t want to respond and throws the treats on the floor, refusing them altogether. The good thing is nowadays she refuses food because she is grumpy and not because she went beyond threshold and is too fearful to respond. *Phew*

Still having a reluctant dog makes grooming a chore for the human at times, so sadly there are days the human needs to incentivise herself to groom her dog weekly. :P

Frequency Intent Behaviour Rewards
After weekly bath, ear-cleaning Matwork – Go to mat
– Stay
– Relax
Regular Kong
Weekly nail clipping Relax while nail clipping Play dead Meat cubes

Three times the opportunity for progress

So training for Donna in our household has always been off the top of the head, ad hoc and “when I feel like it“. Making these tables has really helped me to clarify the results I want to get from the different opportunities present, and also where it seems most efficient to train what command.


The first time I accidentally cut her nail to the quick was just a couple weeks back. I was properly horrified by the drops of blood that leaked form the cut! Feeling kind of resistant to try to cut her nails since then still. *Goes and looks for chocolate, haha.*

I have the say my complaints about grooming, I’m sure it’s my own fault for not being consistent. For all I know, she might be very amenable to them by now if I had kept consistent at desensitisation and trying to counter-condition her to like it.

So hopefully now that I’ve gone though this exercise, I will be more consistent and successful with the grooming part of it. Wish me luck!

[Video] Why the Kong Genius Leo makes my dog look stupid

Look what I’ve got here, Donna!!


(It’s the Kong Genius Leo treat dispensing toy for dogs.)

More videos ahead after the jump!

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